Without them you might think you're dining at a high-altitude P.F. Details like balance and subtlety are important in a fine dining restaurant. The sauce dressing the supporting noodles was thick, intense and too heavy. The fat in the pork belly was nicely rendered, but the meat had lost its succulence. The twice-cooked pork was off on this visit, too. And a heavy sauce, while delicious, was thick and overwhelming for the delicate seafood. So why are the scallops sitting in an assam curry unevenly cooked? Their disparate size doesn't help, but that's no excuse. Five Sixty is a special-occasion restaurant - a high-ticket diner with an ever-changing view. The gent in a boxy suit and the lady in a white form-fitting dress rode up to the tower, their anticipation swelling with their altitude. Thicker portions of the fish were fine, but the tail snapped like driftwood.ĭuring another visit on a humid Saturday night, I shared an elevator ride with a young couple celebrating a 19th birthday. The head of this fish was completely desiccated without a single juicy morsel to be found. Anyone who loves whole fish knows the treasures to be found in the small lumps of flesh behind the eyes like cheeks and behind the head at the top of the spine. The striped bass presents well, standing on its belly with its mouth agape like a roast suckling pig sans apple, but what was brought to my table was far overcooked. Some sides like field mushrooms or the Brussels sprouts would have filled the bill nicely. A suggestion to add the crispy quail produced way too much food. A wok-fried striped bass with a spicy ginger dipping sauce is a siren, but at nearly two pounds the dish puts a two-top in a bind. Some thoughtful guidance might help diners better appreciate their meals here. I wish the servers could be better Sherpas. Choose these over dumplings that sometimes satisfy and sometimes underwhelm, but consistently shock with their price tag. They even looked like firecrackers, filled with rich and buttery seafood and bound in golden paper tied with a tiny crimp of seaweed. Lobster shrimp rolls, on the other hand, exploded with flavor. With a heavy binder and stringy meat, the puck didn't live up to its pedigree. That the waitstaff lacks a certain polish stings a little more when you're asked to pay $19 for a very small crabcake. Another joked that he made a dish himself as he brought it to the table. When I lifted my head the server had disappeared, perhaps caught off balance by the endlessly rotating restaurant. One night I ordered the crabcake for my date, and then looked at the menu to recall another item. While a dining room manager holds a basic certification, Five Sixty has no official sommelier, and the wine and food knowledge of the staff is dispassionate. Besides, a waiter should never chuckle at a customer - especially with prices like this. Yes, those three varietals often lean sweet, but when they don't, they make some of the finest possible food pairings. Not just because the Laurenz Grüner Veltliner was actually exactly what I was looking for (as I learned on a subsequent visit) but also because the waiter made light of the question. So when I pointed to a Riesling, a Grüner Veltliner and a Gewürztraminer during one visit and asked if any of them was dry, my waiter's negative response was disappointing. White wines pair nicely with spicy, heady foods, but the partnership works best when the vintages are bright and crisp. In it, Puck sips from a glass of white wine while pensively staring off into the distance, as if to note a whisper of minerality and bright acidity. Instead of table-side back pats from the man himself, a massive portrait of the celebrity chef greets diners as they enter the lobby. Puck visits the restaurant about once a year, garnering feverish press coverage of his sporadic visits. Now into its fourth year under the direction of Wolfgang Puck, the revolving dining room continues its long history of catering to people marking special occasions and a never-ending procession of hungry tourists. The restaurant spins like a slow-motion pulsar above the Dallas skyline, perched atop Reunion Tower. Five Sixty is a cut above the rest, if solely in the literal sense.
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